Thanks to a larger-than-life taquero, Tacos 1986 is having its moment
(LA Times Dodgers)

At street stands that sell Tijuana-style tacos de adobada, the eye-catching centerpiece is usually a trompo - a vertical rotisserie stacked with marinated pork. In the case of 2-month-old Tacos 1986, the object of attention is the person manning the trompo: chef Jorge Alvarez-Tostado, whose nickname...