Jonathan Gold takes a look at the art of sushi as practiced at Shiki Beverly Hills
(LA Times Dodgers)

Morihiro `Mori` Onodera may have the most passionate fans in the universe of Los Angeles sushi, partisans who swapped pictures of his dishes on sites like Chowhound long before Instagram existed, blissed out at his deeply slashed sayori and tended to see praise of any other sushi chef as a backhanded...