Jonathan Gold reviews Irenia in Santa Ana, which is reinterpreting traditional Filipino cuisine
(LA Times Clippers)

When you hit Irenia at the right time in the afternoon, maybe late on a Saturday when the lunch rush has faded away, you may run into a couple of old guys who look as if they´ve never left their table in the bar, nursing bottles of San Miguel and idly crunching their way through a bowl of dilis,...